Fes Medina Guide: Navigating the World’s Largest Car-Free City

Surviving and Thriving in Fes el-Bali

The Fes medina is overwhelming, magical, frustrating, and unforgettable – often all at once. With 9,000+ alleyways, it’s the world’s largest car-free urban area. Here’s how to navigate it.

Understanding Fes Medina

Fes el-Bali (Old Fes) has been continuously inhabited for over 1,200 years. It’s home to the world’s oldest university (Al-Qarawiyyin, founded 859 AD) and a living, working medieval city where craftsmen still practice trades unchanged for centuries.

Do You Need a Guide?

Yes, for your first visit. Unlike Marrakech where you can wander fairly easily, Fes medina is genuinely labyrinthine. Without a guide, you will get lost (sometimes for hours). A licensed guide shows you hidden treasures and protects you from fake guides and scams.

Top Things to See

Chouara Tannery

The most famous sight – watch leather being processed using medieval techniques in colorful vats. Best viewed from a leather shop terrace (they’ll give you mint to smell!).

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque & University

The world’s oldest university. Non-Muslims can’t enter but can see the impressive doors and surrounding area.

Bou Inania Madrasa

One of the few religious buildings open to non-Muslims. Stunning 14th-century Islamic architecture.

Nejjarine Museum

Beautiful restored caravanserai (merchant inn) now housing a wood craft museum.

The Souks

Each trade has its own quarter: leather, metalwork, carpentry, textiles, spices. Watch artisans at work.

Survival Tips

Navigation

• Water flows downhill toward the Fes River – follow it to exit
• Major landmarks: Bab Boujloud (blue gate), the tanneries, major mosques
• Download offline maps before you go
• If truly lost, ask a shopkeeper for directions to Bab Boujloud

Avoiding Scams

• Only use official licensed guides (arranged through your riad or tour company)
• “Helpful” kids offering to guide you will demand payment
• “The tannery is closed, I’ll show you another” is always a scam
• If someone says your riad is closed/moved, it’s not true

What to Buy

Fes is famous for:

• Leather goods (from the tanneries)
• Blue and white ceramics
• Brass and copper work
• Embroidery
• Traditional musical instruments

Where to Stay

Book a riad inside the medina for the full experience. Many offer rooftop breakfasts with medina views. Budget to mid-range riads offer excellent value.

How Long to Spend

Minimum: 1 full day. Ideal: 2-3 days to fully absorb this incredible city.

Book a guided Fes tour for the best experience!